Earlier this week, the popular drive-in restaurant launched itsnew “Sonic Smasher.
It’s a bold move for Sonic, which isn’t exactly known for producing high-quality, premium burgers.
When done right, a smashed burger is a flavorful, textural masterpiece.
Photo: Sonic. Design: Eat This, Not That!
Steak ‘N Shake has been doing it for decades.
Lately, other chains have joined the patty-pressing party.
The regular Smasher starts at $6.49, while the triple costs a dollar more.
Photo: Chris Shott/Eat This, Not That!
That presumes, of course, that Sonic’s new burger actually lives up to its premium-quality promise.
Here’s what I found.
For the full experience, I ordered the Triple Sonic Smasher, priced at $7.49.
The more basic burger cost $4.99.
The Smasher came in a boxy paper carton, not a wrapper like the standard cheeseburger.
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The taste:Succulent to a fault.
The beauty of a well-made smash burger is in the juxtaposition: juicy yet crispy at the same time.
The burger I tried nailed the the first part: perfectly, chin-dribbling juicy.
But it came up woefully short on the second.
The oversaturated patties showed no detectible sign of sear, either in appearance or on the palate.
As such, they offered none of the crisp, caramelized flavor you expect from a properly smashed burger.
Everything else about this burger was satisfactory.
The cheese was plentiful and immaculately liquified (unlike the solid chilly slice atop the regular cheeseburger).
The sauce was equally abundant, adding a layer of tangy creaminess.
The pickles and onion gave it acidity and crunch.
The buttery bun was pillowy soft but still firm enough to hold everything together.
