Long before fall became synonymous withpumpkin-spicedeverything, autumn in America was really about one thing: football.

And no finger food pairs better with the annual gridiron-gladiator spectacle thanchicken wings.

Nowadays, these delicious, former discards have risen to star-attraction status for many restaurants.

Fried chicken wings on slate board

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Hooters

Amongother things, Hooters is well known for its wings.

Roughlyone third of the entire menuis devoted to the variously prepared poultry parts.

It’s probably all too much, frankly, but this longstanding chain has always gone big by reputation.

Hot Buffalo wings at Hooters

Chris Shott for Eat This, Not That!

The look: A bit overdressed.

The original-style wings came densely breaded and doused in sauce.

Both saucy varieties arrived in their own separate baskets.

An order of 15 wings at Buffalo Wild Wings

Chris Shott / Eat This, Not That!

Both left deep puddles after I gnawed them down to the bone.

The portions were considerable.

The taste: Flavorful but mild.

Original Hot and Lemon Pepper wings at Wingstop

Chris Shott for Eat This, Not That!

Neither packed much heat.

The best thing about these original-style wings was the crunch.

They were a little crispy, but not crunchy like the others.

Chicken wings at Bonchon

Photo: Chris Shott for Eat This, Not That!

And, of course, the operators know a thing or two about wings, hence the name.

The restaurant offers both traditional andboneless varietieswith over two dozen different sauce options.

The whole platter cost $23.99, or roughly $1.60 per wing.

The look: Glistening in their respective glazes.

I could smell the habanero pepper immediately upon arrival.

The taste: Formidable.

A noticeable but not unpleasant burn began with the first bite of Original Buffalo.

The lip-tingling, nose-running effects were in full force by the end of wing one.

The fiery impact could be felt along all the tongue.

On the flip side, though, they lacked the external crispness that many rivals possess.

For one thing, it’sthe preferred chain for many professional chefs, who know good-quality food better than anyone.

Wingstop offers a dozen flavors of both classic and boneless wings.

I first stopped in for an eight-piece combo of the classic kindhalf Original Hot, half Mango Habanero.

I later went back to try the chain’s beloved Lemon Pepper dry rub, too.

The look: Small but saucy.

Meanwhile, the Lemon Pepper showed up with a golden crust, dotted with black specks.

These wings were all on the smaller side, but size alone doesn’t necessarily affect the quality.

The taste: Fresh and zesty.

Wingstop in general came much closer to hitting the perfect crispy-juicy-spicy trifecta.

But, there’s another chain that dazzled me even more.

I know I did.

Once you visit, it’s easy to see why.

One thing that sets this restaurant apart from the rest:its wings are “double fried.

“That’s probably not great for your arteries, but it feels mighty good for your soul.

Bonchon offers only two flavorsSpicy and Soy Garlic.

The look: Ginormous and gently glazed.

Bonchon’s wings were easily the biggest in this survey.

And unlike the sauce-drenched wings served elsewhere, these appear very lightly brushed.

The sauce is thereit’s visibly glintingbut there’s hardly a dab on the paper underneath.

The taste: Perfectly balanced.

The Spicy ones packed a palpable but appealing burn, while the Soy Garlic was lip-smackingly savory.

Both glazes provided sufficient flavor but neither was overpowering like the scorchers at Buffalo Wild Wings.

The best part, though, was the crunch.

Bonchon’s double-fried wings easily out-crackled the Hooters-style wings with hardly half the amount of breading.

If you miss the old-school sports bar vibe, you’re able to always order them to go.